The menu (click on image for a closer view):
The menu (click on image for a closer view):
Here’s another of her paintings which I particularly liked:
Our room was called the Victorian, although the whole house was decorated in Victorian style, with lots of floral wallpaper and upholstery, lace curtains, and displays of collectibles:
The full breakfast, served on fine china in the dining room, was a treat, and an opportunity to visit with Debbie, our host:
The B&B is across the street from this house, featured in the movie Bull Durham as the home of Annie, played by Susan Sarandon:
Within walking distance of the B&B was this house, where my husband lived with a group of friends when he was a senior at Duke:
We had two fabulous dinners in Durham, first at Anotherthyme...
and the second at Four Square, where we had one of the finest meals we can remember:
At top is Duke Chapel, the heart of the campus, and below, the main quad:
The view from a new reading room in the newly expanded library:
Spring was in bloom at the Duke Gardens:
I visited two noteworthy art museums, the Ackland Art Museum at UNC in nearby Chapel Hill, with its moving photojournalism exhibit, and the Nasher Museum of Art at Duke. Here's "Pie a la Mode," by Claes Oldenburg (1962), at the Nasher:
Above and top, views of the American Tobacco Campus, an enclave of renovated tobacco industry buildings (the water tower in the top photo still sports its Lucky Strike logo).
Below, an old building is turned into upscale condos, with a reminder of its past:
The new home of the Durham Bulls, with new offices in the background:
Brightleaf Square, another example of preserving and repurposing old buildings:
Great shopping at Morgan Imports:
West Point on the Eno, a city park on the Eno River, in the northern suburbs:
More highlights of our Durham trip to come!
Fish "sandwiches" range from $4.25 to $6.50, and include several pieces of fish, plus thick slices of toast. Fries and slaw are extra. Here's the menu (click for a larger view):
Here are the platters. Flounder (a fishier tasting, smaller fillet) is on the left, tilapia (milder, thicker) on the right:
What’s worth a return trip is the permanent collection housed here, including a few original paintings by noteworthy artists, such as this one by Gari Melchers...
and this one by Julien Binford (an art professor at the college from 1946-1971):
Here's a view of the "salon," which features a mural painted on canvas and adhered to the walls:
But my favorite reason for a return trip are the black and white photos of the women of Mary Washington from what I can only describe as “a bygone era.” Take a look:
Love the beanies!
The Alumni Center is open weekdays from 8-5, and anyone can stop in and take a look around.
The historical significance of this cemetery of 19 grave sites is that it is the final resting place of some of George Washington’s relatives, as well as members of Fredericksburg’s prominent founding families. If you’re interested in local genealogy, check this webpage for all the info about who’s buried here.
Below: I like these sorts of markers, where the original stone is there, but because it has become illegible over time, the family has added a modern headstone with the same epitaph. This one, for a 2-year old, ends with "She came forth like a flower and was cut down. She fled like a shadow and continued not." Hmm, not very comforting.
Below: The cemetery's most elaborate monument, to James Henderson Fitzgerald (b. 1786, d. 1852). If I could have a fancy monument like this one, in a cemetery in the middle of town that all my friends could visit when they got ice cream, I might reconsider my preference for cremation.
Now, normally a parking garage is a hideous structure. But lucky for us, we already had a hideous structure (the Executive Plaza) perfect for a parking garage to hide behind. And I think the garage is actually a pretty attractive building, scale notwithstanding. I might go so far as to say it’s the best looking parking garage I’ve ever seen. I’m not sure how much business it’s getting—it always seems to be underutilized whenever we use it—but hopefully the downtown merchants are happy about it (although I don’t really know until I read about it on the whiteboard in the window of Riverby Books). There is at least the perception of plentiful parking, and perception is everything.
I just happened to catch the trolley passing in front of the garage:
If you climb to the top level of the parking garage and step outside, it's like our own little Fredericksburg observation tower, 3-1/2 stories above the ground. Here's the view:
William Barber Goolrick founded the pharmacy in 1869 after returning from serving in the army of the Confederacy in the Civil War. The business has been in this location since the 1890’s. The soda fountain was installed in 1912, making it the oldest continuously operating soda fountain in the U.S. The May family bought the place in 1990, and Steve May has been manning the pharmacy for the last 18 years.
Goolrick’s is a fixture on Caroline Street, and you often see visitors taking photos of it. On the bleak February Saturday that we stopped in, the place was doing a good lunchtime business. Tourists visit for the vintage experience, and locals stop in for a quick bite. The soda fountain’s menu is completely classic, featuring a few breakfast items, simple sandwiches, sodas and ice cream treats. No burgers, no fries, nothing fancy. It’s a great place to take kids, because there are plenty of kid-friendly choices: hot dogs, grilled cheese, PB&J, and ice cream for dessert. And what kid doesn’t love to sit on a big stool at the counter? My husband and I shared a big bowl of chili, we each had a sandwich (BLT for him, egg salad for me), and we shared an egg cream, because what else would you order at the oldest soda fountain in America? All for a total of $13.48, about what you’d spend for lunch at a fast food chain. And about that egg cream: the classic recipe includes neither eggs nor cream, just milk, seltzer, and flavored syrup, mixed up to give it a frothy head.
And here we end our series of iconic eateries. Oh, there are many more little family-run restaurants that we plan to go to, but on reviewing the list more closely, I realize that they are all old-timey, small town Southern places, but they can’t all be “iconic.” Allman’s, Carl’s and Goolrick’s stand out as being uniquely associated with Fredericksburg, and all have gotten some attention from food or travel writers from outside the area. But whether the other places are iconic or not, we’ll continue eating in as many as possible. Luckily, I’m on the all-carb diet.
A big bowl of chili to warm up with on a cold day:
Two sandwiches, egg cream to share:
Soda fountain up front, pharmacy in back:
The friendly staff behind the counter: